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  • Q1: Choose and a coast and a river feeding onto it. Produce a figure showing the basic geometry and prevailing winds. Indicate the expected river plume based on the linear Kelvin wave model. What is the expected (or observed) coastal circulation with respect to the actual river transport and winds. State your assumptions and provide references to sources. Quiz Hints: Global winds are available by choosing the country or state winds. ● Rivers can be found in Wikipedia by the rivers name. • Note: Use the references 0- given by these sources, e. the juried sources, not the websites themselves. River f = 2π Trof MARS Northern Hemisphere Mars h=0 sino h~50m. Rover ام -h=50m h=100m 127.9'~ 0.01 #Compute QR criticalSee Answer
  • Q2:[1] A wave is propagating from deep water to shallow water perpendicularly. a) Derive the equation that can be used to evaluate the value of wave height in shallow water. b) If the wave height at deep water is H.-2.4 m and the angle of approach is 30°, what is the value of wave height at water depth of 4.5 m, given that wave period is 10s.See Answer
  • Q3:[2] Deep water waves with wavelength of 100m and approach angle of 60° propagating towards the shore as shown in Figure below. At depth d=20m wave height H20= 3m. a) Find deep water wave height (Ho) and wave height at 5m water depth (Hs). b) Extend the wave ray in Figure down to the location of the star shown on the shoreline qualitatively (schematically) c) Explain briefly why the shape of the shoreline is altered as shown in the figure below. d) If the wave direction at the deep water is 90°, what will happen to the wave and the beach profile? Bottom Contours of d-20 d=15- d=10- d-5- -- Ho=? Lo= 100 m Shore line d-0 ao 60 Top viewSee Answer
  • Q4:[3] A progressive wave having deep water wave height of H. = 5m and wave period of T=10s is propagating towards the shore. Calculate the wave height, Hi at the depth of 8 m. a) if the approaching wave angle in deep water is 30. b) if the approaching wave angle in deep water is 0. c) discuss the main differences between case a and case b (explain why the wave heights are different).See Answer
  • Q5:14] A wave with a period of 8 s propagates toward the shore from deep water. Assume the nearshore slope is 1:20 and a = 35. a) Determine the depth at which wave enters shallow water region b) e) If the deep wave height H, is 2.2 m what is the wave height at shallow water depth evaluated in part a. Determine the breaking water depth d, surf zone length X, and breaking wave height H., knowing that the breaker depth index y = 0.78See Answer
  • Q6:[5] Waves of period T= 1 sec move in a channel shown in drawings below. Wave height at Section (1) is H= 20 cm. Compute the wave height at Section (2). b₁=5 m. Section (1) d₁=1 m. Top View b-10 Side View Channel bottom Sidewall b₂=5 m. Section (2) d₂-50 cm.See Answer
  • Q7:[6] As waves propagate toward shoreline, state three processes that may occur? Describe each of them briefly.See Answer
  • Q8:[7] What is the wave height and water depth at breaking for 1m 4s period wave shoaling on a 1:10 slope in a wave tank with water depth of 5m before the slope? What type of breaker would you expect?See Answer

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